Tuesday 24 September 2013

Be a tourist at home - it pays in every way

On our adventures up the West Coast yesterday, we decided to go down to the sea to Yzerfontein to look for lunch and perhaps spot a whale or two. Dad knew exactly where he was heading and in no time we had parked outside Cafe Rene Coffee Lounge. In we went, and were greeted like old friends by the host, Rene, an extremely attentive Dutchman who remembered Dad from the last time he was there about a year ago. The cafe is an addition to the older house, which is a restaurant decorated in traditional, comfortable style, while the cafe is a single room in a stark modern style but at the same time attractive and welcoming.

We engaged in considerable conversation as he showed us both eating areas, the various menus (short and easy to decide on, on simple chalk boards) - there was at no stage the feeling that you were being waited on, rather being hosted by an old friend. We chose fish dishes - it is always best to have something you can't normally cook yourself, otherwise what is the point in eating out - and were delighted with what arrived on the plates. Sole cooked lightly in butter and literally buried under blanched and roasted almonds, with a vegetable accompaniment of skewered homemade fried potato slices, green peppers, baby marrows and banana (all lightly cooked to perfection, including the banana!) A slice of lemon, strawberries, feta cheese and a kumquat completed the dish.What a combination of flavours and textures - and so successful!

A shared slice of a traditional Dutch cake that was so delicate and flavoursome that we did wonder why we were sharing it rounded off an excellent meal. We got the distinct impression that his menu is not printed because he uses whatever ingredients he can find on the day and he certainly knows what to do with them. We will definitely be going back again - Mom and Dad have been a number of times over the last few years, always a good experience.

We drove along the coast as far as Pearl Bay, gawping in amazement at the veritable mansions that have sprung up among the fynbos on this once-pristine strip of coastline overlooking Dassen Island. It seems that the days of having a little shack by the seaside for holidays and fishing trips are long gone. We were cheered up by the sight of a whale slapping its tail on the surface of the sea, time after time, until disappearing from sight. It is said that they do this to send shockwaves through the water to stun shoals of fish so that they can feed easily; that would explain why it disappeared, I would think - having dinner!

With everyone replete, we set off for home at an easy pace, the ever-spectacular view of Table Mountain ahead of us, growing larger with every kilometre, until soon we were driving along the slopes of Newlands and Wynberg, lush leafy green suburbs, a different world from the short scrub of the West Coast. We live in a country of incredible contrasts within such short distances, and it made me think once again that we should all be tourists in our own country before worrying about the cost of overseas holidays with our weak currency - it will take years to experience everything we have on our doorstep.

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