A natural shower

The first time I hiked up to the Cecilia waterfall above Kirstenbosch was about 6 months ago. I was dismayed at the prospect of the steep climb and it seemed to never end, with every twist in the path revealing yet another flight of steps so thoughtfully built in a bygone era for the many people who love to walk in these beautiful mountains of ours. Sometimes large boulders had to be scrambled up and over, and the thickets of trees and saplings on either side of the path provided a useful handhold to pull oneself up. It was winter and cool under the trees, and it was the steepest and most arduous climb I had done in my new hobby of hiking.
Yesterday we climbed the same route, but this time it was high summer and the trees were an absolute blessing. A strong northwester ahead of a desperately needed cold front was blowing down the face of the mountain, but we soon found ourselves sheltered close against the slope and temperatures rose considerably. It was still an endless uphill trudge, the stairs as steep as ever and the boulders immovable. The stream alongside the track was down to a trickle and even absent in places. However, months of hiking have paid off, and I barely felt a raised heartbeat along the route, the uphill caused no strain on the lungs (my biggest problem my whole life) and the most difficult part was the long downhill, quite hard on the knees. Success indeed.
Our rest at the waterfall was like being in a little paradise. The high moss-covered cliff face bore only a light shower of droplets rather than the torrent of winter, and interspersed among the emerald greenery were numerous splashes of red - the magnificent Disa Uniflora, the jewel of Table Mountain, in the flesh so to speak. What a thrill that was for me, having wanted to see one for many years now. Of course, I only had my cellphone, not the fancy P900, and so a decent photograph was out of the question. Maybe next summer.
Having limited access to water due to the current severe drought, the first thing that crossed my mind at the sight of the waterfall was 'shower'! So without further ado, another thing ticked off the list - stand under a waterfall until wet! What a marvellous experience!

Port to port

Daily stops in South African ports are part of the world cruise scenario, as passengers are not just aboard to enjoy 6-star comfort in opulent surroundings, but also to see the attractions of the countries the Crystal Symphony visits. Port Elizabeth was the stopover for Addo Elephant Park and other local private game reserves, and we were already docked before morning tea arrived with a knock on the door. Buses and private tour vehicles were on the quay, and the gangplank, red carpet and spotless white canopy providing shade for the officials had been set up for those needing an early start.

Preferring to stay aboard, being a local with unlimited opportunities for tourism at home, a working morning ensued, followed by a leisurely lunch and an afternoon nap in preparation for a late night at play.

Exercise to counteract the effects of dining room indulgences consisted of using the stairs to get from the 5th floor to the 11th floor, both up and down, and a few laps around the Promenade deck in the early morning or late evening. I never quite managed to locate the gym, where I would have used the rowing machine in preparation for a possible 'abandon ship' call and the need to row long distances - kidding of course, but rowing is a favourite exercise among the gym equipment. I am pleased to report that the stairs did the trick and no extra weight went home with me.

After the safari-isti returned, exhausted and exhilarated by the abundant game viewing that was on offer, and with many a tale to tell, the gangplank was hauled in, red carpet rolled up and stowed and the soft, billowing drapes of the canopy taken, no doubt, to the ship's well-used laundry, the captain once again set the bow-thrusters in motion and we slipped away from the port into a thankfully smooth sea. (FYI: a beautiful, highly varnished box awaits returnees under the canopy, from which a smartly uniformed crewman plucks warm, damp towelettes for each passenger to wipe the dirt of the day from their hands and faces before embarking. Such attention to detail!)

The Starlite Lounge was a favourite place, with revolving armchairs arranged around occasional tables to accommodate different activities - small social groups in circles, forward-facing for the daily lectures, or just a comfortable place to sit after dinner and enjoy the very talented dance band and high-energy dance troupe who provided something new every evening. Dance ambassadors are in attendance - gentlemen who are accomplished at ballroom and Latin dancing and are on board to ensure that no single lady wishing to dance is without a partner. After a few days, we thawed out enough to join everyone on the dance floor and I must say it is very easy to dance with someone who knows how to lead! In rough seas, much laughter ensued as everyone would suddenly find themselves in a bunch on one side of the floor and then returning to the other side with the next roll!

There were always the same women dancing each evening, and it was rather sad to hear their stories as to why they were alone. Money does not always bring what the heart desires. However, they were always beautifully dressed and so there is some compensation.

We soon established some very comfortable and enjoyable friendships, and there is no doubt that a good time was had by all.

Dance floor partially covered for a show

Bar in the Starlite Lounge

These two chairs were our favourites.

A lift foyer

Preferred option

 

Tea cup with strange twisted handle that was very difficult to handle!

Getting used to it

Life aboard soon settled into a comfortable, pampered and relaxing routine. With roughly 500 crew to 850 guests, one was hardly able to place one's rear end on a seat without a gentle enquiry at the elbow: 'What would you like to drink, madam?' If it was before the sun had crossed the yardarm, I settled for tea and the occasional cappuccino, but when the sun shone through the picture windows of the Tiffany Deck, a small sherry would be sipped and a careful selection made from the tray of canapés offered at the cocktail hour.
Smart casual was the dress code for day wear, graduating to semi-formal for dinner, with two black-tie evenings. This was no tracksuit pants and t-shirts ship! The heavy jewellery came out at night, but during the day one could be blinded by a flash from a well-studded ring or two if the light was right. The cutlery was silver service, the linen damask, and the teacups in the Palm Court perched above the bridge were hand-painted bone china specially commissioned for the ship. The only plastic on board was in the form of surgery, and there were myriad examples of that. It certainly settled any doubts I might have on clinging to my youth. I will just have to grow old disgracefully.
A small percentage of the ladies on board were there to find husbands, but in general there were couples who had been sailing on the ship for many years, a home from home as it were, and many were familiar faces to the crew, who greeted them like old friends. The friendliness and lack of obsequiousness of the crew is, I am sure, on top of the list of making this one of the best ships in the world as voted by those who can.

 

Mmmm

Tea

A humid hike

Hiking in the hottest months of summer is a whole new experience and yesterday's climb up to the Cobra Camp on top of Slangkop, Kommetjie, felt like the hottest one yet. Very welcome cloud cover also meant high humidity, and I slogged ever upwards with a hand towel over my shoulder, mopping the weary brow every so often as I stopped to admire the view. Everyone else joined me, as these are some of the most spectacular views on the Peninsula and it would be a sin not to lift your eyes from the path and enjoy the scenery. At times this is not possible, as rocky or steep terrain requires a firm footing. I'm famous for tripping uphill, and today was no exception, but two hands on the ground kept my face 10cm from a rock! It pays to use a walking stick (forgot mine at home) - not a sign of old age, but rather a steadying influence and lifesaver.
On top of the mountain, a welcome breeze ruffled damp hair and we settled down for a coffee break in the shade of the ruins of the old wartime radio station. It was difficult to discern the group against the graffiti, and it was sad to see that there are many who have no respect for the mountain (or themselves) as they discard the spray cans and plastic lids, among other assorted litter, rather than carry them back to where they came from. It always amazes me that containers can be carried long distances when full, but somehow it is too much trouble to take them home empty. Those who live in filth must ask themselves where it comes from.
The plateau trail across to the Rubbi Chapel was an easy stroll, with plenty of indigenous flora to delight the eye, and dramatic lighting created by the clouds and mist forming and dispersing over the sea. Not a wave in sight, with fishing boats plying to and from Hout Bay, ghostly in the mist, and the Sentinel reflected in the glassy surface. The expanse of beach between the dunes and the Kakapo wreck, where miscreants have been mugging the unwary, is covered in a substantial amount of water, and one can only hope that this will be a deterrent for those who can't find anything better to do with their lives.
We were lucky to continue under cloud cover as we made our way down to Long Beach, where the odd decent wave gave the ever-present surfers good rides, and a very pleasant 8km hike ended with an excellent lunch in the garden of the Lighthouse Pub and Grill!

 

A day at anchor

Tuesday morning:
Woke up at dawn to a glassy sea just off the southern Cape coast about an hour from Mossel Bay. The beds on the ship have a thick layer of gel/foam on the mattress and it is no exaggeration to say that it was like sleeping on a cloud. I have never slept so well and on investigation and identification, it seems that for a mere R20 000, we can have one on our beds at home! Very tempting. And so, well rested and revived by tea delivered with alacrity by 24-hour room service, it was out onto the Promenade Deck for pre-breakfast exercise.
There was an arrow on the railing pointing the way for 'Today's direction'. This was presumably to avoid any confusion or jostling between runners, walkers and sundry strollers. In all the time aboard, I only saw one woman walking against the stream, but I think it was from pure ignorance of ship's rules rather than pig-headedness. I forbore to confront her on the subject and merely stepped aside as she swept by - she was Amazonesque, and doubtless others also stepped aside.
Breakfast was a vast buffet on the lido deck and after two days of the full English - my version: 2 chicken sausages, scrambled egg, bacon, fresh juice, yoghurt/berries/muesli - I never went to breakfast again and had two eggs and tea via Room Service. Who knows whether I would have fitted through the cabin door if it had continued!
We anchored offshore in Mossel Bay and spent a pleasant day sunbathing at the pool (still peeling from the sunburn), enjoying a little R & R in luxurious surroundings and familiarising ourselves with the deck layouts. The Crystal Symphony, referred to by the passengers as 'the hotel', is the ultimate in comfort and style, with everything grouped sensibly and centrally, unlike other ships I have been on, and in no time it was as familiar as a favourite mall. The Hotel Director referred to it as 'a village' and it did feel like one after a while - a little bistro for morning coffee and patisserie, choice of five restaurants for lunch or dinner, a pool deck, lounge areas, cocktail bar, piano bar for late nights (many of those), library, bridge room, movie theatre, big theatre for live shows, spa, gym, tennis court, golf driving nets, outdoor gym equipment on the stern deck, dance floor, hairdresser, etc. There are two self-service laundrettes that make for easy living and great conversations. In fact, everything the heart desires except for some trees to lie under and look up at the sky.
By late afternoon, those who had gone ashore to explore the town or play golf at Fancourt had returned, and we slid silently and smoothly into the dusk, bound for Port Elizabeth.

Stern deck dining

Promenade deck

About the right sized portion!

Breakfast buffet

A lift foyer

Crystal Cove bar area 

Perspex piano

Setting sail at sunset

It's been nearly two weeks since I disembarked from the Crystal Symphony after 16 days aboard this 6-star floating hotel, and I am slowly returning to reality and landlubber's legs. Having never experienced such a degree of service and attention to detail before, I can confirm that it didn't take long to adapt to the lifestyle - probably as long as it took to stow my belongings in the ample and well laid out cupboard space. It was straight up to the open deck for me, to take in the views of my home city of Cape Town cradled in the rocky embrace of that most magnetic of mountains, Table Mountain.
Our departure from the dock was so smooth that I only realised we had left when I saw the increasing distance between the ship and the dockside buildings as I joined a surprisingly few passengers at the railing. (It later became apparent that the majority of the passengers thought this 'old hat' after so many years of cruising the world and docking at a new port every few days.)
I struck up a conversation with two men standing on the sea side of the ship. One told me about the thrill they had experienced on the day trip to Cape Point, where they had seen baboons and buck (real wild life for them) and we chatted a bit about baboon raids in the kitchen. He then said he was looking forward to visiting Addo Elephant park near Port Elizabeth in a few days' time, where he could see elephants and maybe even tigers. I suggested that he might have to go to India for that.
The ship then turned out of the sheltering harbour and into the first swells sweeping up from the south west. Suddenly it was a whole different scenario - no longer the elegant glide, but the dip and rise that comes with a substantial sea - and as we looked down at the swimming pool on the lido deck below, it began to develop a wave and, within a few minutes, half the water washed right out of the pool and swamped the surrounding deck! Unperturbed, crew members went about gathering lounger cushions and towels to stow away, and unhurried sunbathers retreated inside - it was apparently not an unusual occurrence.
This set the tone for the evening's cruise past Cape Point, and more than one passenger was missing from the dining room, although I fortunately felt no ill effects other than having a very conservative dinner!
The Cape Peninsula sat low against the horizon, not the towering mountains of our imagination when viewed from the sea, and I could only marvel at how the early seafarers even found it the first time, let alone achieving a return trip! The last thing I saw before dusk overtook us was the Slangkop lighthouse, a matchstick against the blue mountains - home.

 

Contour path to Kirstenbosch

Back hiking after the December/January layoff, which I missed greatly, especially while cruising the Indian Ocean! That will be the subject of another blog, but for now, the hike from Constantia Nek to Kirstenbosch must rank as a hiking highlight, particularly as we received some welcome rain showers on the way!
We set off under pleasant cloud cover, a thermos mug of coffee from the coffee truck stashed away in the rucksack for later, and were soon on the uphill climb. The gravel road winds quite far up and some canny hikers take their cars right up till it levels out. However, that is cheating if you are trying to get a bit of cardio (the fitbit reveals 2 hours for me and 11 hours of fat burn!) and we do enjoy a bit of a whinge.
The track winds along the upper reaches of the Newlands mountain and eventually narrows to a pathway only wide enough for one person, with a very steep drop on the right, fortunately with thick vegetation to catch the unwary. At one stage I did turn my ankle on a stone and had to catch myself from falling, which proves that mountains can be dangerous and should always be treated with respect. On the subject of safety, with the current spate of horrendous crime on our beautiful Peninsula, most people are seeking safety in numbers and we passed 3 groups of more than 15 hikers, although at no time did we feel the area was likely to harbour criminals. A mass charge would result in someone falling straight down the mountain and we would probably not be able to make sure only the undesirables plunged through the undergrowth.
The view over the Constantia valley became darker and soon disappeared behind a curtain of rain and before we could scrabble around for our rain gear, it was upon us and we thoroughly enjoyed a bit of a soaking, particularly after yesterday's punishing heat. The jacket was like wearing a portable sauna and I soon shed it to enjoy the last few drops. Rain dripped from the end of my hair and down my neck and a little light shampoo would not have been amiss. With the drought and reduced water pressure, water from any source will do!
The whole hike was an absolute delight, with the uphill sections making for a decent workout without being strenuous, and refreshments in the basin at the foot of the Skeleton Gorge waterfall, currently just a seep, enabled us to enjoy unparalleled peace in the mountains.