A road trip invariably has led us along now familiar routes through the Tankwa, Little Karoo, Great Karoo or Garden Route. After months seemingly velcroed to my computer, the call of wide open spaces and new horizons could no longer be ignored. Reports of spectacular displays of flowers in the Northern Cape due to exceptional rains followed by unseasonably warm weather planted the seed. Head north to Springbok, perhaps take a left to Port Nolloth and a right to the mines of Aggenys - even (gasp) the bustling metropolis of Pofadder? A quick search on accommodation websites secured a home from home within minutes, and payment at the tap of a finger meant the trip was on! Time from first thought to confirmation of pending adventure - maybe an hour. I love spur-of-the-moment plans. And the weather would be perfect.
With birding being high on the agenda, I knew this would be four days of early starts, long hours on lonely roads, lots of reversing, gazing across distant landscapes for a fluttering of wings and craning the neck to scan blue skies for the soaring speck of a raptor. For my part, I would be also scanning the ground for new plants to add to my iNaturalist citizen science observations and unusual rocks to feed my appetite as an amateur, very amateur, geologist. I have no regrets in life, but if I did, it would be that I didn't become a geologist. Stargazing would be out of the question due to the full moon, but that interest is fully covered by annual star parties at Leeuwenboschfontein and long days require early nights.
Although a road trip begins as soon as you leave your driveway, the process of actually leaving Cape Town means that you are technically an hour away from home before the city lights fade behind you and the lush farmlands of the Swartland unfold on either side of the road ahead. Rather like opening a zip.
Rolling hills adorned with verdant pastures soon gave way to the mountainous Cederberg, where the road follows the meanderings of the Olifants River, its waters enabling the thriving citrus industry with orchards lining the banks and farmstalls urging us to stock up on the season's bounty. Our destination lay far ahead, and we pushed on without exploring side roads as we kept well below the speed limit and allowed the cowboys who suddenly appeared in our rearview mirrors in twos and threes to overtake and disappear into the distance. Apart from the odd 'train' appearing behind us, the road was surprisingly devoid of traffic and even trucks, for the main route to Namibia. A pleasant drive overall and in exceptionally good condition.
Arriving at the 'knersvlakte', a word which aptly described the crunching of wagon wheels in the pioneering days as they crossed this quartz plain, meant we were truly heading for the Northern Cape, and despite the early morning coolness, patches of purple and yellow and orange could be spied among the low scrub. My last visit to the region was about 14 years ago, and I had forgotten how spectacular and mountainous the geology would become as Namaqualand drew nearer. Vast granite boulders became granite kopjes, a landscape of veritable bubbles from millions of years ago, and the fields between were far from the desert I had imagined - excellent rains a while before has made this a sheep's paradise.
Every kilometre brought new and awe-inspiring vistas and it became necessary to pull in at a lay-by to breathe in the pollution-free air and appreciate the scent of the vegetation, together with the absolute silence that comes with the absence of tyres on tar. It soon became apparent that the veld was alive with birdlife, calls coming from all over, and as we scanned with our binoculars, a 4x4 pulled up and the most personable young farmer who owned the land we were gazing at so intently asked: "Are you alright? Do you need any help?" On hearing we were just looking at birds, he unhesitatingly invited us onto his farm, to wander at will, and just to make sure the gate was closed when we left. He would unlock any gates for us. This is the spirit that drives the soul of the farming community. We took him up on his generosity and enjoyed a short time among his sheep at the windpomp, while he drove off into the distance to check on his livestock. Salt of the earth.
Then it was back on the road - Garies, Kamieskroon, Springbok. What would the next few days bring?
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