Funny how the weather differs so vastly within short distances across the Cape Peninsula. It is said that you can experience all four seasons in one day in Cape Town and that is certainly true in winter. I woke to a fresh northwester with a hint of rain in Kommetjie, drove down to the entrance of Cape Point to join the hiking group in cold conditions with low cloud over the mountains and when we got down to Rooikrans (almost at Cape Point), there were sunny skies and little wind. What to wear?!
Rooikrans is famous for its red sandstone ledges where locals jealously guard their fishing spots and spend summers casting for dinner from the shoals of yellowtail that pass below. Many a fishing story has come from these ledges, generally hilarious and occasionally tragic, as the cliffs are treacherous even to those who have climbed them for fifty years.
Our hike didn't take us to the ledges, but rather down a steep and rocky track to the grassy slopes along the shore and I was happy that we were walking the down route rather than starting at Buffels Bay! The whales are starting to arrive for calving in False Bay and we were treated to the sounds of a small pod spouting nearby, tails and fins waving at us. How marvellous to identify a whale by its sound, or a baboon on the hilltop by its bark, and sunbirds trilling on treetops!
The vegetation on the False Bay side of Cape Point is dense and diverse and a small herd of eland stood motionless on the hillside as we passed, blending into the rocks so perfectly that it was a while before they were even noticed. They favour this area which is sheltered from the northwester and provides plenty of grazing, as do the baboons, although for them it may be the picnic site that is the attraction in summer.
Although the sea appeared calm, there must have been a knock-on effect from the immense swells on the Atlantic side (the biggest I have possibly ever seen), and waves crashing on the rocky shore sent up towering plumes of spray, just to show us that nature is still the boss!
The walk up to where we left the cars was a steep and relentless tar road, not my favourite, but along the way we had the privilege of witnessing a male ostrich doing his flamboyant courting dance for two very interested females and watched the entire mating process from a little way off. It was quite spectacular and so much better than seeing it on TV! It seems to be mating season even though midwinter, as soon we saw another male with his two females going through the same elaborate routine. They certainly work for their reward.
By then it was positively hot, almost unbelievable given the cold and windy start to the day, and I think we were all happy to shed jackets and boots and head off for a good lunch!
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